This upma recipe from New York chef Chintan Pandya is just like the one his mother used to make When Chintan Pandya thinks of breakfast, he thinks of upma. But he’s not alone in that: A traditional Indian breakfast speciality, upma is a savory porridge that’s found across homes in the western and southern parts of India and increasingly all across the country, and not just as a morning food. But Pandya, a New York-based chef born in Mumbai, has a hard time separating upma from his morning memories of enjoying warming bowls of it prepared for him by his mother. The go-to ingredient here is coarsely-ground wheat, which more often than not is semolina. (As the star of the show, the very first step is dry-roasting semolina in a pan.) From there, you’ll find traditional additions like ginger, red onion, chile, and urad lentils, which all provide layers of crunch and texture to the porridge. Then of course there’s herbs and spices, often including curry leaves, mustard seeds, and cilantr...